Sunday, August 2, 2026

Honored by Altenew / Un honor de Altenew

English below • Español más abajo

I have some exciting news to share! I was honored to be selected as a Runner Up in Altenew’s recent Creative Spark video contest! 

🎉 One of my submitted videos will also be featured on Altenew’s social media and marketing channels. I’m incredibly grateful for this recognition and for the opportunity to share my love of cardmaking and creativity with such a wonderful community. As a runner up, I also received a $100 Altenew gift card. This haul is what I applied my Creative Spark gift card towards.  Thank you to everyone who has encouraged me along this journey. More creative adventures ahead!

¡Tengo una noticia muy emocionante para compartir! Me sentí muy honrada de haber sido seleccionada como Finalista (Runner Up) en el reciente concurso de videos Creative Spark de Altenew.

🎉 Uno de los videos que envié también será presentado en las redes sociales y canales de marketing de Altenew. Estoy profundamente agradecida por este reconocimiento y por la oportunidad de compartir mi pasión por la creación de tarjetas y la creatividad con una comunidad tan maravillosa.

Como finalista, también recibí una tarjeta de regalo de $100 de Altenew. ¡Esta es la selección de productos que compré con mi premio de Creative Spark!

Gracias a todas las personas que me han apoyado y animado a lo largo de este camino. ¡Hay muchas más aventuras creativas por venir!

Creating Depth with Masks / Cómo crear profundidad con máscaras

English below • Español más abajo

In art, a mask is a covering that prevents paint or ink from reaching the area beneath it. I first worked with masking while working with watercolor. Watercolor masking fluid is a liquid latex painted directly onto the paper. It dries to a rubbery finish and, once the painting is dry, can be removed easily with a crepe rubber eraser.

Masks are also useful in card making, although many card-making masks come in a dry, paper form. Their primary purpose is to help layer images so that some appear to sit in front of others, creating the illusion of depth. Masks can also be used for purely abstract design purposes.

I am tickled by the underwater scene I created using adhesive-backed paper masks. Because I was watercoloring only small, controlled areas, I did not need to use liquid masking fluid. The watercolor stayed within those areas and did not travel beneath the paper masks. 


Supplies

Create the Card

1. Create the Card Base

Create an A2 folded card, measuring 4.25" × 5.5", from the Pink Sand cardstock. Cut a 4" × 5.25" panel from the Solar White cardstock.

2. Blend the Background

Use your ink-blending tools and inks to create a gradient background on the white panel. Because you are creating an underwater scene, the colors do not need to progress in a perfectly straight line from dark to light.

Use your imagination when placing the different swaths of color. Deeper water generally appears darker, but water also traps light and currents create shifting areas of color. I enjoyed using true blues with phthalo-blue/green.

3. Prepare the Masks

On a sheet of adhesive masking paper, stamp the images you plan to layer. Cut out each stamped image that will be used as a mask.

4. Plan the Masking Order

Masking requires more planning than many other card-making techniques. Before adhering anything, do a dry run. Lay the masks over your background and decide which images should appear closest to the viewer and which should sit farther away.

5. Position the Masks

Think of the scene as a stage. Objects closest to the viewer hide portions of the objects behind them.That relationship determines both the stamping order and the placement of your masks.

Also decide which ink color you will use for each image before you begin stamping.

6. Stamp the Background Images

Peel away the backing from each paper mask and place the masks onto your inked background in the planned positions.

Tip: Save the paper backings. After stamping, you can return each mask to its backing and store it with the coordinating stamp set for future use.

The photograph to the right may look confusing at first, but it shows the masking process in progress. You can see the circular school-of-fish stamp positioned on the cover of my Stampwheel, ready to be inked and stamped.

The whale mask is already attached to the background. When I stamp the school of fish over it, the mask will prevent the fish from appearing on top of the whale. Once the mask is removed, the whale appears to swim in front of the school of fish.

I used the same process with the seaweed and stingrays. The seaweed mask was placed onto the background first, and the stingray masks were layered over portions of it. When the school of fish was stamped, all of the masks blocked the ink.

As a result, the school of fish appears farthest back in the scene. The stingrays appear in front of both the fish and portions of the seaweed. It may help to compare the process photograph with the finished card as you work. You can also practice arranging and stamping a few masks on scrap paper before beginning your final panel.

 

7. Add Metallic Highlights

Once all the images are stamped, use metallic watercolors to add highlights. I painted the stingrays and several fish with silver metallic watercolor.

I added those highlight because the lower-left portion of the card contained a large area of similar color values. The metallic paint introduced contrast and prevented that section from looking flat.

8. Finish the card

Lastly, add gem embellishments to the bubbles created by the scuba diver, and choose a sentiment to stamp. There is a great deal of visual activity on the left side of the card. The small gems and sentiment on the right help balance the composition. 


Cutting masks can be tiresome, although coordinating dies can sometimes make the job easier. Still, masking is a valuable technique for creating depth without having to layer separate die-cut images. From my art table to yours, happy crafting!

Artist’s Note: All artwork shown is my original creation. AI may be used only to stage photographs of my work—never to create the artwork itself.




En el arte, una máscara es una cobertura que evita que la pintura o la tinta lleguen al área que se encuentra debajo. Mi primer contacto con la técnica del enmascarado fue trabajando con acuarela. El líquido para enmascarar acuarela es un látex líquido que se aplica directamente sobre el papel. Al secarse adquiere una textura gomosa y, una vez que la pintura está completamente seca, puede retirarse fácilmente con una goma de crepé.

Las máscaras también son muy útiles en el cardmaking, aunque muchas de ellas vienen en forma de papel adhesivo en lugar de líquido. Su función principal es permitir superponer imágenes para que algunas parezcan estar delante de otras, creando la ilusión de profundidad. Sin embargo, también pueden utilizarse con fines puramente abstractos y de diseño.

Me encantó crear esta escena submarina utilizando máscaras de papel adhesivo. Como solo apliqué acuarela en áreas pequeñas y controladas, no necesité utilizar líquido para enmascarar. La acuarela permaneció dentro de esas zonas y no se filtró debajo de las máscaras de papel. 

Materiales 

Crea la tarjeta

Paso 1: Crea la base de la tarjeta

Dobla la cartulina Pink Sand para crear una tarjeta tamaño A2 (4.25" × 5.5"). Luego corta un panel de 4" × 5.25" de la cartulina Solar White.

Paso 2: Difumina el fondo

Utiliza tus herramientas para difuminar y las tintas para crear un fondo con un degradado sobre el panel blanco. Como estás creando una escena submarina, los colores no necesitan seguir una transición perfectamente lineal de oscuro a claro.

Deja volar tu imaginación al distribuir las distintas franjas de color. Generalmente, las aguas más profundas se ven más oscuras, pero el agua también atrapa la luz y las corrientes crean zonas cambiantes de color. Yo disfruté utilizando azules intensos combinados con tonos azul verdoso de ftalo.

Paso 3: Prepara las máscaras

Sobre una hoja de papel para enmascarar adhesivo, estampa las imágenes que deseas superponer. Luego recorta cada una de ellas para crear las máscaras.

Paso 4: Planifica el orden del enmascarado

La técnica del enmascarado requiere un poco más de planificación que muchas otras técnicas de cardmaking. Antes de pegar cualquier máscara, haz una prueba en seco. Colócalas sobre tu fondo y decide cuáles imágenes estarán más cerca del espectador y cuáles quedarán al fondo.

Paso 5: Coloca las máscaras

Piensa en la escena como si fuera un escenario. Los objetos más cercanos al espectador ocultan parte de los que se encuentran detrás. Esa relación determinará tanto el orden en que estamparás las imágenes como la colocación de las máscaras.

También decide con anticipación qué color de tinta utilizarás para cada imagen antes de comenzar a estampar.

Paso 6: Estampa las imágenes del fondo

Retira el protector de cada máscara de papel y colócala sobre el fondo entintado según la disposición que hayas planificado.

Consejo: Conserva los papeles protectores. Una vez que termines de estampar, podrás volver a colocar cada máscara sobre su respaldo y guardarla junto con el set de sellos correspondiente para reutilizarla en otra ocasión.

Al principio, la fotografía de la derecha puede parecer un poco confusa, pero muestra el proceso de enmascarado en acción. Puedes ver el sello del banco circular de peces colocado sobre la tapa de mi Stampwheel, listo para entintarse y estamparse.

La máscara de la ballena ya está adherida al fondo. Cuando estampe el banco de peces sobre ella, la máscara impedirá que los peces aparezcan encima de la ballena. Una vez retirada la máscara, la ballena parecerá nadar delante del banco de peces.

Utilicé el mismo procedimiento con las algas marinas y las mantarrayas. Primero coloqué la máscara de las algas y luego superpuse parcialmente las máscaras de las mantarrayas. Cuando estampé el banco de peces, todas las máscaras bloquearon la tinta.

Como resultado, el banco de peces parece estar en el plano más lejano de la escena. Las mantarrayas quedan delante tanto de los peces como de parte de las algas. Puede ayudarte comparar la fotografía del proceso con la tarjeta terminada mientras trabajas. También puedes practicar el acomodo y estampado de algunas máscaras sobre papel de prueba antes de comenzar tu panel definitivo.

Paso 7: Añade reflejos metálicos 

Una vez estampadas todas las imágenes, utiliza acuarelas metálicas para añadir reflejos. Yo pinté las mantarrayas y varios peces con acuarela metálica plateada.

Añadí esos reflejos porque la parte inferior izquierda de la tarjeta tenía una gran área con valores de color muy similares. La pintura metálica aportó contraste y evitó que esa zona se viera plana. 


Paso 8: Termina la tarjeta

Por último, añade gemas sobre las burbujas creadas por el buzo y estampa el sentimiento que prefieras. Como el lado izquierdo de la tarjeta tiene mucha actividad visual, las pequeñas gemas y el sentimiento ubicados a la derecha ayudan a equilibrar la composición.

Recortar las máscaras puede resultar un poco laborioso, aunque los troqueles coordinados a veces facilitan el trabajo. Aun así, el enmascarado es una técnica muy valiosa para crear profundidad sin necesidad de superponer imágenes troqueladas independientes.

¡De mi mesa de arte a la tuya, ¡Que disfrutes creando!

Nota de la artista: Toda la obra mostrada es de mi creación original. La IA puede utilizarse únicamente para preparar o ambientar las fotografías de mi trabajo, nunca para crear la obra artística en sí.


Friday, July 31, 2026

Blending with Alcohol markers/Difuminado con marcadores de alcohol.

English below • Español más abajo

I took an alcohol marker blending workshop with Quillish artist and cardmaker (among many other things!).  And I loved it. My main experience painting with markers were with acrylic markers; and frankly, I only used them for rudimentary lettering and coloring. But I grew up with alcohol markers.

Alcohol markers are capable of subtle shading. And they are a natural compliment to stamping or hand drawing. You can build up layers and they are delightfully vibrant. 

But here is the key. You need quality alcohol markers. Before, I had a knock-off, no name set of alcohol markers and pretty quickly realized I would only. be able to use them for my personal coloring book activities. They were not suitable for art.

Why, you may ask? Quality markers have a consistent ink color throughout the marker and within the set. Their colors match the company provided swatches and color names. And lastly, the actual marker needs to be made well. Nib tips and brush tips need to be durable and be able to create the lines for which they are intended.

I had given up on my alcohol marker set and wondered why artists used them as much as they did. So I decided to purchase a few sets from a high caliber supplier (Altenew). I started with a few sets of four in different color families. And I took a workshop on coloring with alcohol markers. These cards were the result of my first foray into alcohol markers. I like it! Plan to see more of this medium in future work.

Artist's Note: All artwork shown is my original creation. AI may be used only to stage photos of my work—never to create the artwork itself.


Recientemente tomé un taller de difuminado con marcadores de alcohol impartido por la artista y creadora de tarjetas Quillish (¡además de muchas otras facetas creativas!). La experiencia me encantó y me abrió las puertas a una técnica que siempre había querido explorar.

Hasta ahora, mi experiencia con marcadores se limitaba principalmente a los marcadores acrílicos, que utilizaba para hacer letras decorativas y colorear detalles sencillos. Los marcadores de alcohol, en cambio, ofrecen posibilidades muy diferentes.

Una de sus grandes ventajas es que permiten crear degradados suaves y sombreados muy naturales. Además, combinan perfectamente con los sellos y con los dibujos hechos a mano. Al aplicar capas de color poco a poco se consiguen resultados intensos, luminosos y llenos de profundidad.

Ahora bien, hay un aspecto fundamental: la calidad de los marcadores hace una gran diferencia.

Hace algún tiempo compré un juego económico, sin una marca reconocida. Muy pronto descubrí que solo era útil para colorear por diversión en libros para colorear. Para realizar trabajos artísticos no ofrecía los resultados que buscaba.

¿Por qué sucede esto? Los marcadores de buena calidad mantienen un color uniforme de principio a fin y los tonos coinciden con las muestras y cartas de color del fabricante. Además, están mejor fabricados: tanto la punta pincel como la punta biselada son resistentes y permiten realizar los trazos con precisión y control.

Después de esa primera experiencia pensé que los marcadores de alcohol simplemente no eran para mí. Sin embargo, decidí darles una segunda oportunidad y adquirí varios juegos de una marca de alta calidad, Altenew, comenzando con pequeños conjuntos de cuatro marcadores en distintas gamas de color. También me inscribí en un taller para aprender las técnicas básicas de coloreado. 


Las tarjetas que comparto hoy son el resultado de esa primera experiencia. Estoy muy satisfecha con el resultado y, sin duda, seguirán viendo este medio en futuros proyectos y tutoriales.

Nota de la artista: Todas las obras que se muestran son creaciones originales mías. La inteligencia artificial puede utilizarse únicamente para preparar o ambientar las fotografías de mis obras; nunca para crear la obra artística en sí.



Tuesday, July 21, 2026

Ink blending for dramatic effect/Difuminado de tinta para un efecto dramático

English below • Español más abajo

I had a blast diving deeper into ink blending in Ishani's workshop, One Floral Image, Two Distinct Styles. I enjoyed it so much that I ended up making three cards instead of just two! Thanks for a wonderful class, Ishani! 

Artist's Note: All artwork shown is my original creation. AI may be used only to stage photos of my work—never to create the artwork itself.

¡Me divertí muchísimo profundizando en las técnicas de difuminado con tintas en el taller de Ishani, Una Imagen Floral, Dos Estilos Distintos (One Floral Image, Two Distinct Styles)! Disfruté tanto la experiencia que terminé haciendo tres tarjetas en lugar de solo dos. ¡Gracias por una clase maravillosa, Ishani! 

Nota de la artista: Todas las obras mostradas son creaciones originales mías. La IA puede utilizarse únicamente para ambientar las fotografías de mi trabajo, nunca para crear las obras.




 

Thursday, June 18, 2026

Create texture on your cards with embossing/Crea textura en tus tarjetas con embossing

English below • Español más abajo

This card is quiet in it's design. The subtlety appealed to me. I like the visual surprise of a shadowbox frame that continues the lines seamlessly. And the monochromatic color palette creates an understated feeling.

Card maker Svetlana Marchenko passed on a great embossing tip in her Altenew course Impressive Heat Embossing.  If you use clear embossing powder on colored cardstock, the result is a natural deepening of the paper's color. No hunting for the right embossing powder. Keeping the same color but deepening its intensity is what created the subtle color palette. 



Supplies
  1. Cut green cardstock into an A2 (4.25"X5.5") foldover card and also a separate 4.25"X5.5" piece of green cardstock.
  2. Use your embossing ink to stamp floral elements around the border of the card front and the solo piece of green cardstock. I recommend using the Stampwheel 2.0 to keep your stamped design in the exact place on the two different cardstock pieces. This is key to getting the seamless look of continued lines once you layer the pieces of cardstock over one another with dimensional tape. 




  3. Sprinkle clear embossing powder over the embossed ink and heat it with your heat tool until shiny. I advise you use some type of antistatic powder over the cards before inking. This helps the embossing powder adhere just to the inked designs. I use plain ole cornstarch.
  4. Use your frame die to cut out a border on your solo piece of green cardstock.
  5. With dimensional foam tape adhere the cut out frame to your card front. Make sure the lines connect for a seamless overall design. 
  6. Optional: add a few clear sequins to your card front for a little bling. I recommend keeping your sequin clear to go along with the subtle look. 



  7. Stamp your sentiment with antique gold pigment ink for a rich look to your lettering.

Here is a similar card with different color cardstock. Which do you prefer? 





Esta tarjeta es discreta en su diseño. Esa sutileza fue precisamente lo que me atrajo. Me gusta la sorpresa visual que crea un marco tipo shadowbox cuyas líneas continúan de manera fluida. Además, la paleta monocromática aporta una sensación elegante y contenida.

La creadora de tarjetas, Svetlana Marchenko compartió un excelente consejo sobre embossing en su curso de Altenew Impressive Heat Embossing. Si utilizas polvo de embossing transparente sobre cartulina de color, el resultado es un oscurecimiento natural del tono del papel. No hace falta buscar el color perfecto de polvo para embossing. Mantener el mismo color mientras se intensifica su profundidad fue lo que permitió crear esta paleta de color tan sutil. 


Materiales


Instrucciones

  1. Corta una cartulina verde para crear una tarjeta plegable tamaño A2 (4.25" x 5.5"). Corta también una segunda pieza de cartulina verde de 4.25" x 5.5".
  2. Utiliza la tinta para embossing para estampar los elementos florales alrededor del borde del frente de la tarjeta y también sobre la pieza adicional de cartulina verde. Recomiendo utilizar la Stampwheel 2.0 para mantener el diseño estampado exactamente en la misma posición en ambas piezas. Este paso es fundamental para lograr el efecto de líneas continuas cuando las dos capas se superponen utilizando cinta dimensional. 



  3. Espolvorea el polvo de embossing transparente sobre la tinta para embossing y aplica calor hasta que el acabado se vuelva brillante. Te recomiendo aplicar algún tipo de polvo antiestático antes de estampar. Esto ayuda a que el polvo de embossing se adhiera únicamente a las áreas entintadas. Yo utilizo maicena común y corriente.
  4. Utiliza el troquel de marco para recortar el centro de la pieza adicional de cartulina verde.
  5. Con cinta adhesiva dimensional, pega el marco recortado sobre el frente de la tarjeta. Asegúrate de que las líneas coincidan para crear un diseño continuo y uniforme.
  6. Opcional: añade algunas lentejuelas transparentes para un toque de brillo. Recomiendo que sean transparentes para mantener la apariencia sutil del diseño. 

  7. Estampa tu mensaje con tinta pigmentada Antique Gold para darle un acabado elegante y sofisticado al texto. 

Aquí tienen una tarjeta similar realizada con un color diferente de cartulina. ¿Cuál les gusta más?



Tuesday, May 19, 2026

Creating Victorian Inspired Floral Cards with "The Drawing Room"

These two Victorian-inspired cards were created with Altenew's The Drawing Room bundled kit.



I really love this set. So many period tidbits to mix and create different tableaus. I am dying to make a card with the drawing room furniture. The card fronts were so complete in my mind,  I chose to keep one card blank and include an embossed sentiment on the inside of the other card. 

The colorful, layered florals appear vibrant against the neutral backgrounds. I chose four different colors to stencil the flowers and four for the leaves. While this had potential to look like a paint store exploded, it all works because I kept the colors in the same color family and increased the saturation in fairly even levels. Big tip: you can let others do the work for you by purchasing color sets already assembled with these considerations in mind. If you do not have a pre-packaged color set, then you can will likely need to whip out your (two level) color wheel. Here's my supplies and the steps I used to create them. 
Supplies
Optional: 
  • Anti-static powder (I use corn starch)
  • Washi tape
  1. Cut and fold an A2 card (4.25"X5.5"), cut a piece of 4"x5.25" black cardstock and a piece of 3.75"X5" white cardstock. Set side.
  2. On a separate piece of white cardstock, use the kit's layering guide to stencil the flowers and leaves. I find it helpful to use a blending brush for each color. If you plan on continuing making cards, it is a good idea to invest in several. It's not a good idea to use a damp brush (recently cleaned) to stamp a new color. It will majorly slow you down if you need to wash and dry brushes between colors. 
  3. Using your die cutting machine, cut out the flowers with their leaves. I use low tack tape (washi tape) to keep my die in place while cutting.
  4. Using the desired stencil on your 3.75"X5" piece of white cardstock, create your neutral background with your gray tones. I originally made the stenciled background gradient in color by using an ombre effect with my inking. This is seen in my supplies photo above. It looked unfinished, so I later changed it to the solid color background seen in final card. This kit provides many options to use for backgrounds; ranging from stamps, stencils and an embossing folder.
  5. Assemble the pieces of the card. I used flat double sided tape to center glue the black cardstock over the card front. And I tried two different layering approaches with my two smaller pieces of white cardstock. On one, I centered the white panel over the black. And on the other I nestled the smaller white cardstock to the lower left, leaving more black edge around the top and right sides. This is evident in the supplies photo. However, again, I changed my mind and centered it. I like asymmetry and planned on adhering my flower at an edge with her leaves partially extending beyond the card. I felt that was enough asymmetry. 

  6. Using the foam tape, adhere the flower onto the card. I placed it lower right, with a tiny bit of overhang.
  7. I chose to include an embossed sentiment inside one of the cards. True to form, Altenew kept the fonts and the wording in keeping with the Victorian feel. I love their attention to details.
I hope you can see that even though one might have a step by step process in mind when creating, you are always tweaking and changing course. Even re-doing entire cards to get the desired one. Some of your best creations will be the result of happy accidents. Have fun with your artistry!

Monday, April 27, 2026

Drawing on vellum

I took a class with Marika Rahtu, in Altenew's Academy,  called Beautiful Details. Oh, how I loved her drawings on vellum and her pencil and marker shading. From the six lessons in her class, I made over 12 flowers until I felt I had one to two to use for these two cards. Part of the problem was that I was substituting some of her supplies and that made a difference. But part of the issue was my inexperience with working with vellum. That comes with time. And as I like to say, I have more time than money, so no worries. 

I was most happy with this wild western rose against a green frame. I ended up with several other roses drawn on vellum awaiting other projects. TIP: When I am setting out to make a card, I am now making several of the main design motifs so that after I finish one card, I have several design elements to use in other creative projects. It saves time to make several at the same time than only one design and card at a time. I save the extra design elements with the corresponding card making set which I keep in a flat storage bag. I guess this is only an aha! tip if you are really into card making, lol.

I have been missing in action for almost 2 months because I underwent a serious spinal crisis and had two cervical surgeries in March. I am recuperating with two neck braces and a walker but alas, I am only able to do my art or typing, etc., for half hour at a time. This is so frustrating as creating is healing for my soul and brings me so much happiness. But I am nothing if not tenacious.

So I aim to do one to two 1/2 hour sessions at my art table or computer a day however, since I have to do computer work just to manage my life, that leaves me working in tiny bits of time at my art table. It will get easier as I heal more. So, after two months, I am proudly, displaying my card, lol.

Supplies
  • Altenew's Nostalgic Floral stamp and die set
  • Altenew's stamps of sentiments from their Fruits and Flowers set (This is a wonderful bundled set to have but any sentiment you already have will suffice. Later, I will show a card with this complete set ;)
  • Altenew's white cardstock
  • Altenew's fresh dye ink in Evergreen
  • Altenew's foam tape
  • Altenew's glue (with needle nozzle)
  • Green cardstock
  • Vellum (you can substitute tracing paper in a pinch.)
  • Cornstarch
  • Embossing ink and clear embossing powder
  • Heat tool
  • Prismacolor pencils in chartreuse, lime green and olive green
  • Alcohol markers in three shades of warm grey, light to dark. 
  • Foam dots
  • Clear drop embellishments 

  1. Measure, cut and fold your cardstock for your A2 card (4.25"x5.5"). Cut the green panel to measure 4"x5", cut another white cardstock to 3.75"x5"and finally a white piece of cardstock to 2.5"x2.75". 
  2. Center and adhere the green and larger white panel to your card front. Line your smaller piece of cardstock flush against the top left side of the white panel. I find that working asymmetry into a card creates visual interest.
  3. Use cornstarch to brush a fine layer over vellum. Stamp your western rose onto your vellum with embossing ink.
    Sprinkle clear embossing power over the embossed ink. Then use your heat tool until the powder turns shiny. It may be difficult to see the clear embossed outline; good lighting helps tremendously.
  4. Use lightest of your warm grey markers and begin shading in your rose. Do not outline shadows but rather lay swaths of color where you see shadows. Progressively shade in darker ares. You can use darker shades to delineate edges of the flower.
Use the rose die to cut out the flower
6. Adhere the flower to your card with small foam dots. I chose to cut off the leaves and use foam dots for the rose but flat glue dots to adhere the leaves. I felt showing the flower in two layers made the rose appear to flutter a little. 
7. My finishing touch was to add a tiny bit of embellishment. I chose iridescent drops that are flat on one side and convex on the other. They bring to mind raindrops.

This class was rich in lessons that taught me novel ways of drawing. I found it challenging and know that I will return to watch and work this class again in the future. I am far from Marika's skill with pen and marker drawing on vellum.  Also, I did not have some of the crucial supplies for several of her techniques, so that will also be remedied in the future. I have a feeling, this will be one of my toughest but one of my most favorite classes in the AECP (Altenew Educator Certification Program). 


Here is another card I made inspired by Marika's lessons. It features drawing over a stamped image with colored pencils. As an artist who has a strong hand in all my work, this suited my style more than the delicacy of drawing on vellum. 

Honored by Altenew / Un honor de Altenew

English below • Español más abajo I have some exciting news to share! I was honored to be selected as a Runner Up in Altenew’s recent Crea...